2012年1月2日星期一

The collection changes every two months

A better option may be the choir's regular Friday concert, Most MuseumsQuartier buildings open at 10am and have varying closing times. The MQ Kombi ticket is 25 and includes entry to all MuseumsQuartier buildings; Hofburg Imperial Palace;2pm Five minutes' walk from the Hofburg Imperial Palace is the historic five-star Hotel Sacher. It's a good place to boost energy levels with a sachertorte, one of Vienna's most controversial sweets. The cake - with two layers of thick chocolate separated by a line of apricot jam and topped with chocolate icing - was the centre of a long legal stoush between Hotel Sacher and Demel Patisserie, both of which claimed to have the original recipe from 1832. In 1963, an out-of-court agreement was reached, with the hotel retaining the right to sell its cake as the Original Sacher-Torte. The patisserie version is now called Demel's Sachertorte. If you want your cake and a sausage too, try a wurstel stand. These cheap sausage kiosks are all over the city and the cheese-infused bratwurst (nicely sliced into bite-sized discs) with bread costs 3.80. I find a concentration of wurstel stands at City Hall Square, where Vienna's Ice Dream is in action. The massive outdoor skating rink is buzzing with skaters and music; when the sun goes down it is colourfully and beautifully illuminated. The Ice Dream operates annually between January and March but if you're visiting during December this is also the site of Christkindlmarkt, the city's biggest Christmas market, which attracts about 3 million people a year. Hotel Sacher, Philkarmonikerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, sachertorte with whipped cream 3pm A 20-minute train ride from the city centre is the 1441-room Schoenbrunn Palace and gardens, once home to the Habsburg dynasty. Various self-guided tours (with headphones and commentary in English) are available to see the lavishly furnished rooms, including the parlour where six-year-old Mozart played recitals. Schoenbrunn Palace, 22-room tour 9.50/6.50; 5pm Industrial-style furniture and accessories decorate Das Rosetta Stone French Moebel, a cafe where the in-crowd gathers to chat and catch up on emails, the furniture is for sale and emerging designers are showcased. The collection changes every two months. A beer, such as a Czech Kozel, is 2.50, or try the popular Austrian soft drink, Almdudler (a blend of apple juice, grape and herbs) for 2.60. Almdudler is Austria's second-favourite soft drink, after Coke. For a classical coffee house, try Cafe Central, opened in 1860, with chandeliers and marble pillars. The Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky was one of its customers. (At any Viennese cafe ask for a melange - coffee with milk - rather than a latte. I'm told by a waiter that latte isn't a Viennese thing and they don't appreciate requests for it; the waiter will likely want to tell you to go to Italy to get one.) Das Moebel, Burggasse 10, 1060 Vienna, coffee from 1.90; Cafe Central, corner Herrengasse/Strauchgasse, 1010 Vienna, piano player performs daily 5pm-10pm, coffee from 2.60; 7pm At Figlmueller (a famous schnitzel house in business since 1905) they beat the schnitzels with a mallet until the diameter is 34 centimetres. As mine is brought to the table by another surly waiter in a tuxedo, I see it is bigger than the plate, a cause for mirth and camera clicking. Service is quick and there's no beer, only wine. Stick to your precise booking time; we are turned away when we arrive early. Close to Figlmueller, at Stephansplatz in the geographic centre of Vienna, is Stephansdom (St Stephens Cathedral), an impressive gothic cathedral that is one of the most visited tourist sites in Vienna. Locals affectionately call it Steffl and the main tower is 136 metres tall. Figlmueller, Wollzeile 5 and Baeckerstrasse 6, schnitzel 12.90, see Stephansdom, see 9pm After overdoing the schnitzel, bratwurst and sachertorte, a good lie down beckons. Vienna does, however, have appealing nightlife for anyone able to press on. The hottest night spots are Loos American Bar, open until 5am; First Floor, a hidden-away cocktail bar on the second floor at Seitenstettengasse 5, Ecke Rabensteig; Volksgarten Club Disco; and the new Sass Music Club where electronic music rules.

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